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Friday and Saturday 20^th and 21^st August 2010 will see the first festival in Loudun of the celebration of Les Diables.  Over the two day period it will involve recitals, street theatre, processions and a grand bonfire ( www.lesdiablesrient.fr).  This is a free festival for all the family.   The programme begins on Friday 20 August at 19.00 hours finishing with a grand spectacle of a bonfire at 22.00 hours on Saturday evening.

 

The festival is a celebration, if one can call it that, of a long gone period when people were persecuted, for what appeared to be religious reasons – but often the reasons were more likely political.  This was the period of the inquisition throughout Europe – when people were mercilessly tortured.  17^th century France, like the rest of Europe was in social and religious turmoil

In France Cardinal Richelieu had considerable influence over politics and royalty and had suggested that certain fortifications in France should be destroyed to prevent an uprising from Protestants.  Louis XIII agreed in principal, but he refused for Richelieu to touch the town of Loudun,  because of a previous agreement with the governor of the town.

 

Following the death of the Governor however, Urbain Grandier the priest of Loudun, was left in charge of the town.  Grandier was highly regarded and popular with the townsfolk.   But we must remember that this was during a time when men became priests because they had no other alternative  - usually because they were the younger member of a wealthy family, and by law everything was left to the eldest.  The only choice was to join the army or join the priesthood.  

Grandier appears to have aided his own downfall during this time as he was less than discreet in many ways.  Again we have to remember that this was a time of ‘do as I say, don’t do as I do....’.  Grandier was involved romantic affairs and finally secretly married a woman of the town, Madeline de Brou.  Unfortunately for Grandier, the convent where he celebrated mass also provided an avenue for his persecution.  The head of the local convent, Sister Jeanne, was sexually obsessed with Grandier and his refusal to acknowledge her, resulted in her agreeing to suggestions put to her by those in authority, that he was obsessed by the devil and that he had bewitched all the other nuns

 

A professional witch hunter, Father Pierre Barre, is bought in to sort out the problem.  Barre was a lunatic inquisitor who carried out depraved acts of exorcism on his victims.  The result was a public exorcism and orgy within the town and the persecution by burning at the stake of Urbain Grandier.

 

Les Diables, or The Devils was portrayed in a 1971 British historical horror film which starred both Oliver Reed and Vanessa Redgrave and was directed by Ken Russell.  It is based on a dark period of history during the time of the inquisition and of Cardinal Richelieu.  It tells of the rise and fall of Urbain Grandier, the priest in charge of Loudun – a small town in the north Vienne - during the 17^th century.  It tells of his fight against authority and of his execution for witchcraft

 

The film differs to some degree from the original facts.  Grandier is thought to be innocent by Mignon who sees it purely as a political maneuver.  Grandier is originally acquitted of the original charge of witchcraft, which is later reinstated by Cardinal Richelieu.   As Grandier burns at the stake, the order is given for explosives to be set off which will destroy the city.  And the rest is history as they say - and left to your own decision.

The Devils is based partly on the book ‘The Devils of Loudun’ by Aldous Huxley produced in 1952, and partly on the play ‘The Devils’ by John Whiting. The film produced great reaction because of its disturbing nature with regards to the violent, sexual and religious content and was banned in several countries.

Around Loudun there is plenty to see and do including a walk around the Promenade de Foulques Nerra, where at the summit you will also find the medieval Tour or keep and a medieval garden; a race track; and an equarium.  You will also find a cinema and a theatre in the town as well as many historical remains.

 

CLOSE BY:

Moncontour -  11^th century keep and water sports lake– 20 minutes

Richelieu – walled town and beautiful garden – 10 minutes

Thouars – Chateau, medieval town and several museums - 20 minutes

St Generoux – roman bridge and romanesque church - 30 minutes

Chinon – Magnificent town and chateau and river - 20 minutes

Saumur – magnificent town and chateau - 30 minutes

 

 

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

 

 

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