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A GUIDED TOUR OF THOUARS : PART 1 : Short Tour of Thouars

Thouars is a town wealthy in beautiful, ancient and medieval buildings, however many are hidden away from the visitors view by later developments.  In order to undertake a tour of Thouars, like a runner or a skiier, you really need to have a good approach, in more ways than one.

 

For the very best view of town and chateau you should arrive on the road from Parthenay and head up the dual carriageway for the centre ville.  From this road you will obtain a tremendous view across the back of the chateau, the wall on which it stands, and old fortifications and towers, including the town cemetry which stands proudly alongside. But don’t expect to take any photographs at this point – there is nowhere to stop and the traffic is very quick here.

 

Following the signs to centre ville to the top of the hill you will find ample parking – except if you arrive on a Friday morning when the market is on.   This is a great place to start your tour.   By the huge car parking area you will also find the Office de Tourisme where you will be able to obtain a map of the town with a guided tour in English.  You will also find the theatre just at the side, which has a beautiful frontage. 

 

Coming away from the Office de Tourisme, back toward the parking, alongside the post office is a childrens play area.  To the otherside of this area is Parc Imbert.  Here are some of the oldest fortifications in Thouars which date to the end of the 12^th century.  They now house a beautiful park and lead all the way down to the river.

 

As you come back out of the park gates – straight opposite is the old wash houses signposted ‘lavoirs’ and ‘douche’.  Continue on down the hill on the main route, you pass a beautiful old building which houses the local archives – which has definitely seen better days.  Continuing on you will come to the Town Hall - a beautiful old building, the town hall is 17^th century, and was originally a convent belonging to the Nuns of St Laon. 

 

To the side of the Town Hall is the church of Saint Laon.  An 11^th century building, with a beautiful 12^th century Romanesque tower.  Inside you will find a beautiful baptismal font and a beautifully carved spiral staircase upto to the Choir. The church  houses a 15^th century tomb, a magnificent 18^th century baroque retable and a painting believed to be by the 17^th century painter Guerchin. The church also houses a chapel and the tomb of Margaret of Scotland, she insisted on being buried in the church.  She was the first wife of Louis XI, who died just aged 22.  It was said that Saint Laon’s relics which were housed here at the church, could cure madness!

 

Coming back alongside the church and the town hall directly opposite is a road that takes you directly to the shopping area.  By now you will have earned a rest and here as you join the shops at 53 de la rue Saint Medard you wil find the Café des Arts.  A  veritable instituton of exquisite design for those of you who like turn of the century (20^th that is) architecture and design.  The décor has inspired films and it was the first establishment in the Thouars region to offer beer on tap – coffee and a bite to eat is also available and on occasions they have music evenings.

 

 

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

 

Read Part 2 here and Part 3 here

 

 

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