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Feature: A Guide 2 Saint Generoux in Deux Sevres

04 March 2010

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The Story of SAINT GéNéROUX

 

When is a Roman bridge not a Roman bridge?  When it is built in the 12th and 13th centuries! The bridge which crosses the River Thouet in the pretty, historical village of Saint Generoux is just such a bridge and can found at the lowest part of the village.  It was built by the monks of Saint Jouin de Marnes, whose Abbey Church was erected between 1095 and 1130.

 

The bridge at Saint Generoux is unusual in that it is composed of five arches, the three middles arches being round in shape, whilst the other two are pointed.  Two of the arches have shelters made above the triangle shaped cutwaters.   Today this Roman bridge is usable only by pedestrians, however everything is visible from the new bridge which was built alongside to take traffic.  To the south of the bridge you can still see the remains of the ancient castle.  

 

But the Roman bridge is not all that Saint Generoux has to offer of interest.  The church of Saint-Generoux, which dates back to around the 10th century, is one of the oldest churches in the Poitou region.  Like the Abbey church of Saint Jouin de Marnes which was built as a shrine and erected over the tomb of its founder Jovinus, a shrine was also possibly erected here at Saint Generoux to its founder of the same name.  Generoux, who was later canonised, was a monk of Roman origin, but was based at the monastry of St Jouin de Marne (then known as Ension).  Generoux chose to lead the life of a hermit until his death in 521 AD.

 

The architecture of the Church of Saint Generoux is particularly interesting in that it is pre-Romanesque in style.  Its design follows that of the Carolingian period (post 751 AD) which knew nothing of vaults and buttresses of the later Romanesque period.

 

Internally, as we enter, the nave is composed of an array of arches, pillars and columns and windows high in the walls allowing streams of light to reflect on the interior.  The nave was originally composed of a single rectangular room, with action being taken to support the heavy framework much later in the 12th century and was eventually divided into three naves by three high arcades.  The clerestory wall is one of the most original aspects of the architecture at Saint Generoux church – with arches built upon arches, upon colonnettes. The style of architecture is unique and includes medieval Poitevin sculptures and demonstrates Byzantine influences.

 

A mourning band can still be seen on the Western wall which originates from the 18th century.  Coats of arms still visable, believed to be those of the Laspaix family, who were descendeants of the Seigneurs des Granges and whose fortress was positioned above the church in the late 15th century.   Further down the transverse room was originally intended solely for the monks.  Only towards the 11th century was it lined with false transept arms.  Two gemel windows in the Eastern wall introduce a capital on top of a colonnette in the Corinthian style.

 

Being refashioned in the 12th century and immensely restored in the 19th century, the church contains many interesting features.  To the western façade and the present day entrance, can be seen the bell tower which was part of 19th century restorations (1892 – 1893).  The external to the church still suggests much of its original décor with its stylised stonework.  The rear of the building shows proud circular aspects with stonework similar to that found at Fontrevaud Abbey.  The windows in the centre sections appearing like eyes watching upon its congregation.

 

The old priory ruins are still impressive to this day.  The old chapel named d’Argentine in honour of the lords whose tombstones are now laid in the nave, is in ruins, the old entrance into the church no longer attached.  Archeological digs which have took place locally in 1969 unearthed merovingian sarcophagi.  On of the graves was that of a rich lady still wearing her earrings similar to those of Queen Aregund, wife of King Clotaire (511 – 561)

 

However further celebrity status alludes Saint Generoux.  It is suggested that the French very learned poet,  thief and vagabond Francois Villon (1431 – 63) stayed in the village.  In his treatise ‘Le Testament’ (1462) he wrote

‘Si je parle un peu Poitevin Cela m’ont deux dames appris. 

Elles sont tres belles et gentes.  Demeurant a Saint Generoux…  ’

 

 ‘ If I speak a little Poitevin, then two ladies have taught me.  They are very beautiful and gentle.  Living at Saint Generoux….’

 

However this can neither be proved nor disproved!

 

Nearby:

Au Bon Accueil – Hotel Restaurant

Auberge du Vieux Pont – Restaurant.

 

For further information see Office de Tourisme de Airvault.

 

The Abbey church of Saint Jouin de Marnes  6 km

Moncontour donjon and water ski lake  9 km

Thouars  16 km

Loudun  29 km

Chateau Oiron  10 km

Airvault  11 km

 

 

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

 

 

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