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THE STORY OF AIRVAULT

 

What have didgeridoo festivals and Voltaire got in common? The answer is the beautiful, medieval “Cité de caractére” of Airvault in the Deux Sevres department of the Poitou-Charentes region of central France.

 

Airvault was “born of the will of a woman saved from the water…” according to legend quoted by the tourist board. The story goes that Aldéarde d’ Aulnay, the wife of viscount Herbert I of Thouars fell in the river Thouet while crossing it. Close to drowning, she prayed to God and promised that if she were saved she would build a church overlooking the river.

 

The Saint Pierre church in the centre of the town was begun around 975AD and gave rise to the town of Airvault. Some years after the death of Aldéarde in 1010AD, Pierre de Fontaine the abbot of Airvault, continued her task and completed the church in 1100. This year 2010, marks two anniversaries – the 1000th year of Aldéarde’s death and 910 years after the church was finally completed.

 

Over many centuries this beautiful Romanesque church was adapted, extended and renovated providing Plantagenat style Gothic vaults. Old wells and a spring can be found underneath the church, feeding into an underground stream and completing with a fountain which can be found in the square to the front of the church. The façade of the church displays tall columns, handsome windows and sandstone statues – all of which are finished in traditional Romanesque ornamentation and tell biblical and moral stories. Externally on the south side of the church can be found the outlines of the ancient cloister arches. The church consists of a huge hall which was used as a stop over on route to Santiago de Compostela by pilgrims.

 

Not far from the church can be found the remainder of one of the largest Augustinian Abbeys in the Poitou region in it’s time. Now a museum, it houses traditional arts and crafts – and includes a screen listing the names of locals who fell during the French revolution. In the grounds of the abbey can be found the old prison, ramparts and various other historic buildings. A beautiful 18th century covered market hall stands at the centre of Airvault. Wander around the market held on Saturday mornings and take time to meander around the narrow cobbled streets and medieval half-timbered houses.

 

The old chateau of Airvault which towers above the town, was built over an old hill fort belonging to the Gauls. It’s erection commenced between the 11th and 14th centuries, however the only parts remaining of the old chateau include two truncated towers, the surrounding wall and a keep. The chateau is thought by historians to predate the church, which it overlooks.

 

Over the centuries the chateau has played an important part in the defence of the area. In 1207 it was taken by Philippe Auguste after a lengthy siege. In 1439 Airvault was attacked by the Duchess of Thouars, Maire Rieux, along with over 1500 soldiers. Having destroyed the towns’ fortifications she turned on the chateau with such ferocity that Sybille de Liniers, the lord of Airvaults’ wife, was forced to flee her apartments.

 

Generally it appears over the years, that the Lord’s of Airvault favoured the royalist cause, in September 1565 welcoming both Charles IX and the future Henry IV. This support meant the demise of the chateau. Following the defeat of Admiral Coligny at the Battle of Moncontour on 3rd October 1569, he ordered it to be destroyed. His revenge was against René Ysoré, who along with the Duke of Anjou (the future Henry III), had caused his defeat.

 

In more recent times it is rumoured that Airvault housed, if only temporarily, one Monsieur François-Marie Arouet, whose parents apparently owned property in the area. Monsieur Arouet, better known as Voltaire, was born in Paris in November 1694. A writer, philosopher and defender of civil liberties he spoke out against the church and state. Along with other radical thinkers at this time his ideas helped influence the American and French revolutions.

 

There are various ideas behind his change of name. Some believe he took Voltaire in 1718 following a family argument and his imprisonment in the Bastille. Others believe the name derives from a reversal of the name Airvault; others suggest instead it is an anagram of AROVET LI – the latin spelling of his surname. Voltaire’s brother had a house in nearby St Loup Lamaire.

 

In Airvault in July each year you will find a world music festival including a three day didgeridoo festival and grand Bastille Day celebrations.

 

Places to go:

Thouars – blues festival

Parthenay – jazz festival

St Generoux

St Loup-sur-Thouet

Chateau d’Oiron.

Poitiers and Futuroscope

Marais Poitevin

Puy du Fou

Pescalis angling centre

Loudun

Moncontour

St Jouin des Marnes

 

 

tourist office. www.tourisme-airvaudais.fr

 

 

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

 

 

 

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