Description:

Travelling in the north Vienne / Deux Sevres region of Poitou Charente’s?  Be sure to pass through the small town of Oiron. 

If you take the main route, D37 from St Jouin des Marnes to Thouars, you might think that what you see in the distance is an extremely large factory.  However you will not forgive yourself for missing such a grand and impressive chateau as that of the town of Oiron.  The original plan resembled that of a fortification having four walls, but unlike most fortifications it is found on wide open plains, not a rocky out ridge.

Chateau Oiron was plundered during the Revolution in the late 18^th century and was left to fall into ruin.  It was rescued by the French Government just before the Second World War and attempts made at restoration.  The exterior of the chateau has been cleaned and repaired, displaying some of the original features such as the Renaissance gateway and Gothic style buttressed columns.

 

Today the chateau houses a contemporary exhibition of curios and memorabilia – evoking the ideas of a previous owner, Claude Gouffier.  There are exhibits which demonstrate the use of space, balance and optical illusion.  There are other displays of mutant insects and animals – perhaps not to everyone’s taste.  The range of exhibits will stretch and awaken your senses – for they push the ideas of sight, sound and smell to the limits.  However whilst the exterior is magnificent and the exhibition strange, one of the main reasons for a visit should be that of the several rooms which have been restored to their former glory. 

 

During the last few years a bevy of artisans have been at work internally, restoring some of the greatest work ever to be seen.  The long, impressive Gallery of Painters, which dates from around 1550, has undergone restoration. It borrows scenes from some of the greatest classical authors such as Homer and Virgil and mythological stories of The Horse of Troy.  The Cabinet des Muses displays beautiful, colourful wall cameo’s of exotique fruits, trees and people, evocative scenes of Astronomy and music.  The Chambre du Roi makes you want to lie on the floor and take in the beautiful ceiling frescoes.  The Grande salle du Roi or Salle d’Armes combines both modern exhibit and ancient décor – with a beautifully painted and decorated beamed ceiling.

 

What of the history of Chateau Oiron?  Its origin lies in the late 15^th century with the first Guillaume Gouffier, valet to Charles VII, later Governor of Touraine.  The estate passed to his youngest son Guillaume who was apparently good looking and witty, a soldier and close friend to Francis I.  Guillaume was the younger brother of Artus Gouffier, tutor to the young Francis and Guillaume lived most of his time at court being tutored alongside Francis. 

 

Successors to Guillaume updated and improved the chateau over time.  His daughter-in-law, Helene de Hengest had the impressive collegiate church built (see below).  In 1538 the chateau passed to Claude Gouffier, squire to Henry II.  It was Claude who provided inspiration for today’s contemporary exhibition of curiosities.  Claude also provided the inspiration for Charles Perrault’s story Puss in Boots and the Marquis de Carabas - Claude was made Marquis de Caravaz by Henry II.  And it is Claude who in 1551 invited the entire court of Henry II to the Chateau Oiron – imagine the pomp and ceremony and the excitement of the villagers of Oiron.

 

But things weren’t always rosy for the Gouffiers.  In 1620 the owner was exiled from the King’s court by the infamous Cardinal de Richelieu.  During the 1600’s Charlotte Gouffier was enamoured with one Blasse Pascal, mathematician and scientist, who it is said angered the religious authorities with ideas which would have been verging on the blasphemous in those days. When Blasse died Charlotte married Francoise d’Aubusson, duc de la Feuillade, who bought wealth and connection to the chateau.  It was Francoise who provided further renovations – taking away a front wall, providing a central causeway so that the chateau resembles the shape it does today.

 

Madame de Montespan, infamous mistress to Louis XIV, purchased the chateau from  D’Aubusson’s son.  Madame Montespan held considerable influence over the king and court, even from this distance. Successors to the property allowed its decline.

 

Nearby the collegiate church of Saint-Maurice is remarkable—it must be the only church in the world that houses a stuffed crocodile  thought to hold mystical powers!  And over the door to the church, in Latin, can be found the inscription (translated) ‘Here is the End’ – make of that what you will!!

Nearby:

Moncontour donjon – 10 minutes

St Jouin des Marnes abbey/church – 5 minutes

Airvault – 10 minutes

Loudun museums and aquarium – 20 minutes

Thouars chateau, museums – 15 minutes

St Loup Lamaire chateau and medieval town – 20 minutes

 

 

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

 

 

 

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