Feature: A Guide 2 Moncontour a town in Vienne, Poitou Charentes

Description:

If you have ever visited the sleepy, historical village of Moncontour in the Vienne you would be forgiven for thinking that it has always been this tranquil.  Encircled by forest and riverside walks; enclosed by fields of sunflowers and melons in the summer, it is easy to become carried away with the peacefulness of the surrounding nature.

Who would have thought that this peaceful village has seen some of the worst battles in history.    Overlooked by it's 11^th century donjon which was owned in 1201 and again in 1206 by John Lackland, later king of England there is no doubt that both donjon and town have witnessed some of the most atrocious deeds.

There is every possibility that the battle in 732 which took place between the Muslim and Christian forces, and along the route between Poitiers and Tours, also spilt over into this area.  We do know from historical sources that the invading army divided up into several raiding parties in order to kill off opposition but also to find resources in the form of food and horses.  We also know that Abdul Rahman Al Ghafiqi, the governor general of Andalus was killed by Charles Martel's army during the battle.  It was a great battle which some historians suggest was a landmark battle in turning back the advance of Muslims from Europe, helped to save Christianity and founded the Carolingian Empire.

In 1372 the village was involved once again in battles - this time between the English and the French during the Hundred Years War.  Duguesclin swore in 1372 that he would never sleep until he had retaken Moncontour and hung the Englishman who had insulted him, making the dungeon eternally famous.

However, the month of October observes the anniversary of a great battle which took place in Moncontour.  On the 3^rd October 1569 the donjon again witnessed conflict, this time between Catholics and Protestants - out on the plateau lynching, looting, burning and massacre were encountered.  The major characters involved were the experienced Admiral de Coligny, leader of the Huguenots (or protestants) who commanded some 25,000 men and the young Duke of Anjou, Head of the Catholics, who was commanding the royal troops, with 30,000 men.  The battle resulted in some reported 20,000 dead on the plain of Moncontour.  Might was on the side of the Catholics this time however - with Coligny injured and departing for La Rochelle, the Duke of Anjou  sent news to his brother King Charles IX and Catherine de Medici - their mother.

During these wars strategy was of prime importance, as well as equipment and firepower.  One piece of machinery that was used was the catapult.  Generally large ball like stones were used in these catapults to penetrate the walls of the castles and donjons, but it is not unheard of for the armies to use dead and decomposing animals in the catapult - sending them across to the enemy to spread disease.

There are however, a number of houses in Moncontour today, who still display in their grounds large ball like stones which were used in these catapults to attack the donjon.  Meander around the rivers edge and peak inside the gardens of the houses which front the river and see if you can spot a ball or two....  (the one in the picture can be found in the rear garden of Le Grand Saule Chambre d'Hote)

A branch of the river Dive runs through the village - for the river itself breaks off into several branches, one running through the nearby forest.  Along the rivers edge you will also find the ancient community lavoirs or wash  houses.                

The  area is a paradise for nature lovers - you can find deer and birds of prey if you look carefully.  If you are a fisherman make sure you have a heavy duty rod - the fish are BIG!    'Arrive in spring and the swallows will lead you to your destination.  Or you may be lucky enough to spot a heron or two along your route, usually stealing a fish or two from the fishermen'.   Moncontour also has a water sports lake complete with beach for swimming, mini-golf, campsite and auberge.  There is also a small but very beautiful park within Moncontour.  

Plaques around the village of Moncontour describe journeys of river, forest, nature and history. 

PLACES TO VISIT

Moncontour Donjon

Beautiful  Romanesque church of St Jouin des Marnes

Chateau of Oiron open daily with a contemporary display.

Church of Oiron contains a stuffed crocodile thought to have mystical powers!

Town of Oiron has several vineyards and winemerchants.

The towns of Loudun, Thouars, Airvault and St Loup Lamaire

Poitiers famous theme park Futuroscope which is just 45 minutes drive.

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

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