Feature: A Guide 2 Loudun a Town in Vienne (86)

Description:

LOUDUN

A Town of quiet solitude and calm reflection.

The town of Loudun houses a magnificent Hotel de Ville with an imposing statue to one of it's most important sons to the front.   But who would have thought that a town as peaceful as Loudun would have such intrigue, mystery and murder surrounding  it's past.

You can be charmed by the streets and alleyways, the names of which give us a clue to those who were involved with the town in one way or another during it's history.  You can be in awe of the  views from its high points.   But for a story we must dig a little deeper.

Loudun was established on an old roman road,  the celts settled on the hill, and at the crossroad of Poitou, Anjou and Touraine, it acts as a gateway to other areas.  The style of the buildings are very mixed with light coloured tuffeau  lighting up the entire region, whilst the roofs are a mix of both the dark slate and terracotta roman tiles.  Philippe Auguste  had a large fortress built at Loudun, however the famous Richelieu family had it demolished in the 1600's.

Renaudot (1586 - 1653) could be said to be Loudun's most famous celebrity.  Born in Loudun, he was a man of passion, wisdom and ingenuity - a doctor,  a writer, an inventor -  Renaudot invented the newspaper industry in France.    Now a museum and waxworks his former family home on the Rue Renaudot displays his life and his work and is well worth a visit.

Notice the phrase '... could be said to be ...'   because there is another famous person - and in fact made famous by a famous person.  If you are an Oliver Reed fan, you may well remember the film 'The Devils' in which he portrayed a french priest who was said to be possessed by the devil, practised witchcraft and was burnt at the stake for his crimes or sins.  This film was based on fact! 

Father Urbain Grandier was the priest in question.  Urbain Grandier was the curate or priest of the church of Saint Peter or Eglise Saint-Pierre not far from the Hotel de Ville.    You can visit the church of St. Peter where Urbain Grandier was a priest - savour it's  mix of architectural styles - including a superb Renaissance doorway. 

Or, why not linger in the Espace Sainte-Croix which now houses contemporary art exhibitions -  once an  ancient church with a beautiful romanesque chancel that dates from the XIII and XIV centuries. 

It takes it's name from the original Holy Cross which the Duc of Anjou is said to have acquired and given to the church.  It is a busy place to be on a Tuesday when market day takes place.  Sit and sip an aperatif, watch the world go by - but rememberthat the church was the scene of several nasty exorcisms of the nuns involved in the Grandier story and particularly that of Urbain Grandier himself who on 18^th August 1634 was burnt at the stake.

A more recent murder intrigue surrounds the 'Bonne Dame de Loudun' otherwise known as Maire Besnard who on the 25 October 1947 is said to have murdered her husband Leon Besnard by poisoning him with arsenic.  The trial went to the great court at Poitiers but the Dame de Loudun got off scott free because they were unable to prove her guilt.

VISITS:

Basically there are two tours set up by the tourist office around Loudun.  The Circuit du Martray which takes you through the  beautiful  XIII century Martray fortresse gate.  Take a stroll through the Promenade de la Lice where horseriding and medieval jousting once took place and discover the foundations  of the dungeon.  Or a second route where you will discover the Medieval gardens at the foot of the Tour Carrée, or square tower.  This Dungeon which originates from around 1040 and was built by Foulques Nerra  provides a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside.  The Foulques Nerra walk  is a beautiful gem of a  park which meanders here, there and everywhere - but never fails to disappoint with the sights and scents.  At its summit you will also find a Velodrome and at it's base on Rue du Tourniquet a outdoor summer swimming pool.

The Aquarium on Boulevard Mal Leclerc

The house of Romanesque Art with it's unique collection of roman pillars and stained glass windows.

There are maps available in English from the tourist office in Loudun which provides you with the two suggested routes.

Story written by Anji Weston who runs a B&B Le Grand Saule in Moncontour, Vienne

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